I suppose it is only natural to expect that Hachijojima, or any other island for that matter, has a unique cuisine. And while pointing out to fish would not be wrong, it is not the only items on the menu. Here, we will briefly overview fancy names like ashitaba, kusaya, and the like, all of which are a part of the island's cuisine. So, if you are not on an empty stomach, read on!
General Food Situation
Generally speaking, while somewhat limited but a variety of foods exists. Looking from a broad perspective, there are western cuisine orientated restaurants serving hamburgers or just the patties, pasta, waffles, etc., and the traditional Japanese cuisine serving restaurants and/or bars (izakayas). There are also numerous Chinese restaurants, a few Korean ones, one French (chez.Queux) restaurant, a curry (Hiro Curry) and a pizza (Pizza Paradiso) place which could be treated as Indian and Italian cuisine respectively. As for the local supermarkets, you can find the most common meat and diary products, vegetables, canned or packed ingredients, and of course fish, but as you can see it is not the only thing that is brought to the table.
Fun fact: everything is transported either by ferry or by plane, so in case of prolonged bad weather, food supplies can run dry and it is not rare to see some of the shelfs in the supermarkets to be empty, especially products which are quick to expire. It is actually quite a view when that happens.
Kusaya
For those with no knowledge of the language kusai means to smell/stink, and you will know when you are being served kusaya. While this correlation is speculative as the use of the word kusaya originates from a shop's name, it is one of those things which you either love or hate, and no middle ground is found.
The first production of kusaya on the island dates more than three centuries back as it began somewhere in the early Edo period (1603-1868). Back then, Niijima, the founder of kusaya, shared its kusaya broth with Hachijojima, and over the years of countless trials and errors the manufacturers on the island managed to eventually perfect their own unique and secret broth. Both peculiar scent and addictive taste is said to be decided by the sole ingredient - broth itself, and the final product is a gem of a persistent maker.
Nowadays, you can order kusaya in many restaurants and bars, and it is something that is consumed by many locals on a daily basis for it is believed to be the secret behind the long and healthy life. Also, kusaya has become an essential food and no ceremonial occasion is celebrated without it.
Ashitaba
Ashitaba, also known on the island as the herb of Hachijojima, is a perennial flowering plant in the celery/carrot/parsley family with a peculiar bitter taste. Its fast growing rate attributes to the given name literally meaning tomorrow's leaf (ashita - tomorrow, ba - leaf) as it is said that upon planting a seed, the following day a small sprout will already be visible.
Recently, it has been attracting attention as the healthy herb which contains a variety of minerals, vitamins, and other highly valued nutrients. It is also believed to be an affective medicine and protection against constipation, diuresis, and high blood pressure.
The plant can be prepared as tempura or be served as a side dish to kusaya or any other meal. The ground powder, on the other hand, is used diversely and treats like ashitaba udon and soba noodles, cheesecakes, soft creams, beer, etc. can be found. Being one of the representatives of the island's cuisine, it is definitely not a guest on the dining table and is liked many.
Shimazushi
Shimazushi, or Island (shima meaning island) Sushi, is a type of sushi local to Hachijojima. The puzzle of this unique sushi could be broken down into three pieces: first - seasonal fish from the coastal waters is used which is sliced and marinated in soy sauce, sometimes infused with green chili peppers; second - the sushi rice is hand-molded in semi-sweet vinegar; third - mustard is used instead of the traditional wasabi, glueing fish with the rice. The main accent is probably the use of mustard which seems to be unique to this island but enjoyed by everyone.
In the past, the use of soy sauce to preserve freshess was common when heading out for the open seas, but now it is used for the taste. As for the fish, red sea brim and the flying fish (tobiuo) is usually used in the making of this sushi.
Hachijo Shochu
In Hachijojima, which is blessed with water resources, there are currently four operating breweries each boasting original shochu distilled either from sweet potato (芋 imo), barley (麦 mugi), or both. The traditional way to enjoy it is by drinking on the rocks or by diluting it with water and many locals can be seen doing it.
Note: Shochu might be mistaken by some for sake, but one should keep in mind that those are two different drinks. Shochu is distilled from a variety of ingredients and is stronger (on average around 25% alcohol) while sake is fermented from rice and is weaker (usually around 15% alcohol).
The extra bit
The above-mentioned ones make the bigger part of the local cuisine's picture, however, there are other specialty items no less important mentioning that are: passionfruits, lemons, jersey milk products, shiitake mushrooms, and, while not really a specialty, island berries.
It is actually not rare to hear someone speak about Hachijo lemons, but in comparison with passionfruits, they are the newer addition to the island. Nowadays there are quite a few people growing the said fruits and one can find Hachijo lemons and passionfruits in stores in their original shape or in a more inventive shapes like various cookies, marmalade, or just straight up juice (passionfruit drink is especially popular). On a more interesting note, a hot sauce similar to tabasco is being made from lemons which is known as shimasuko (shimasco). Sounds similar, huh. While the production may not be limited to Hachijojima (as it is a popular product of Miyakejima), but it still something that attracts one's eye.
One might encounter some lovely cows while cruising around the island, but they are not just for a show. Jersey milk products have become popular with two specialized cafés (Gelateria365 & Jersey Cafe) welcoming everyone all year round. The most notable products would be jersey pudding, yogurt drink, jersey butter, mozzarella cheese, and gelato. Everyone is sure to find their own favorite jersey product. Also, while the two cafés are the obvious choices when hunting for a jersey treat, but it is not rare to also find some of the products in the supermarket, or even at the restaurant, or a hotel, so keep a lookout!
As for shiitake, it is most probably the newest addition to the island's portfolio as it is mainly grown by a single body (Dairyu Farm) but it has already made its appearance on various TV programs and has nothing but the best reviews. You can be sure to always find some fresh mushrooms in the local supermarket.
Also, it is possible to have a tour around the factory and have a trial go at harvesting the mushrooms which can then later be purchased, however, it is only available in Japanese. For more information check their official website.
And lastly - berries. A variety of berry bushes can be found in spring throughout the island, especially all over Eigo side of the island (northern side of Mt. Hachijo-Fuji) most prominent probably being mulberries and brambles (blackberries, raspberries, and dewberries).
It is not rare to see locals picking berries as they are tasty and make great jam, but you will generally not find them in a shop, so wild berry hunting is your only option!
Summary
Hachijojima boasts unique cuisine with wonderful flavors hardly found elsewhere. Ashitaba, kusaya, shimazushi, and Hachijo sochu are the obvious first picks when on a local food hunt, but those are not the only things that one can find on the island. Fruits, berries, diary products, and shiitake mushrooms are the less known pearls which should not slip your attention.
Safe travels!
Hachijojima101