One of the ways to reach Hachijojima is using the ferry service provided by Tokai Kisen.
While being a slow method of travel, one should not be disconcerted by the lengthy travel time as in return it provides a unique experience of being in the middle of the vast ocean, seeing other islands from afar and up-close, and helps you take a step back from the daily routine and its worries. Here we will go over the necessary information concerning the ferry all the while checking out its advantages and disadvantages.
Coming to Island
I always recommend the ferry (large passenger ship) when coming to Hachijojima. Why? Because locals do it and so should you. The reasons behind this is that the ferry leaves Tokyo [Takeshiba] terminal late at night and arrives in the morning meaning that (1) you sleep through the long journey, (2) get a free lodging and save money, (3) see Tokyo illuminated by the lights when departing, (4) arrive in the morning and have the whole day for yourself. On top of that, it is the cheapest way of transportation to and from Hachijojima. On numerious occasions I have seen groups of high schoolers, students, parents with children, elder people, and other board the ferry meaning it can't be that bad, can it?
Talking about the disadvantages one must mention comfort, canceled departures, and consider those prone to sea sickness. Being the cheapest means that you get to choose to sleep either in a chair like one would in a night bus (not suggested) or on the special floor. Of course you could book a higher class cabin but that would increase the cost and the plane might become a wiser choice. For the extra comfort on the ground you can rent numerous blankets for 100 JPY each at the information center once the ferry departs, however, I have never had the need to have more than one. Then, there is the possibility of ferry being canceled due to rough ocean and/or inability to anchor at the port, thus it is best to check the weather forecast beforehand and avoid typhoon seasons all together. The good part is that the ferry is rarely sold-out due to its size so in most cases it is possible to get the ticket right before departure. Nevertheless, reservations are always recommended. Finally, if you are prone to sea sickness, it might be best to avoid the ferry.
Overall, those with a sense of adventure who do not mind skipping a comfortable bed for a night and wanting to save money and time, ought to consider this way of transport.
Key Points
Departure: once a day at 22:30
Arrival: ~8:55 (the following morning)
Ticket price: starts from ~8,420 JPY
(35% discount for locals with residual address in Hachijojima (requires official ID); inquire at the ticket booth)
Elabarote timetable and information about carry-on luggage can be found here. Other information about discounts, the large passenger ships with cabin pictures and what not can be found on the Tokai Kisen website.
Leaving the Island
You can choose to go back to Tokyo by the large passenger ship, however, is it really worth it? The cheaper transportation price might be tempting as it is almost half the flight price, but you have to remember that you sacrifice the whole day. Departure is in the morning which makes arrival to be late evening. This means that by the time you arrive to Tokyo apart from dinner there will not be much to do apart going to hotel to sleep. Sea sickness is still valid for those prone to it, however, since you will (probably) not be sleeping it should not affect as much.
Looking from the other side of the coin, you have the whole day to yourself to take it easy, maybe read a book on the deck or enjoy a drink. Once every other hour distant islands come into view thus the time seems to fly as you pass by them. The ship makes two stops at Mikurajima and Miyakejima so there is enough going on for you to be occupied. Especially if the day is bright and not too cold it is really quite an experience to remember.
Overall, I would say choose the ferry back to Tokyo only if you have extra time at hand and want to take it slow for a unique experience.
Key Points
Departure: once a day at 09:40
Arrival: ~19:50
Ticket price: starts from ~8,420 JPY
(35% discount for locals with residual address in Hachijojima (requires official ID); inquire at the ticket booth)
If you forget to buy the return ticket, Tokai Kisen ticket booth can be found at the passenger waiting area in Sokodo.
Operating hours: 8:30~15:30 (closes at 11:30 during the weekends and national holidays)
Will My Ship Depart?
It is always stressful when something does not go according to plan. Especially when we talk about transportation delay or cancellation because it causes a chain reaction affecting the upcoming plans. Luckily, Tokai Kisen announces on the day of the departure whether it will be cancelled or not HERE. The only downside is that it is in Japanese. Refer to the picture below for explanations.
In short, if on this page you see:
green circle - you are good to go.
yellow star - the ship will depart, but might not be able to berth.
grey triangle - weather conditions are being confirmed, check again later (announcement time is usually stated in the remarks column).
red cross - cancelled.
About the Yellow Star label. Hachijojima has two ports on different sides of the island, so that if one is unavailable, the other one is usually unaffected thus allowing to berth. However, on very rare occasions the ship might cancel the trip mid-way and return to Tokyo if it is deemed impossible to berth after all. Usually it is predicted beforehand and the trip is cancelled altogether instead of being labelled as a star.
I have personally boarded a few ships labelled as star, and had no problems. In most cases, it cannot berth in the passing Miyakejima or Mikurajima islands instead of Hachijojima.
Two Cents about the Ferry
There are 2 ferries that operate: Salvia Maru (white) and Tachibana Maru (yellow). The 2nd generation Salvia Maru finished its service in 2020 and has been replaced by its successor, the 3rd generation Salvia Maru.
In both of the ferries you can rent blankets after the departure for 100 JPY each at the information center. For some one is enough, for others three might not suffice. Then, there are no drastic changes in the room temperature and it is kept at a moderate level (not too hot or too cold) so sleep is sound. Also, free WiFi is available on higher floors, however, mobile data seems to have troubles transmitting once farther away from the mainland. And while there is a restaurant and vending machines, I would suggest bringing your own snacks and drinks if you want to save some extra money. Finally, electric outlets are available throughout the ferry so your devices are safe.
Talking about the safety onboard, Tachibana Maru (the yellow one) has lockers available above where you sleep (uses one 100 JPY coin which is returned upon unlock) but the older one lacks them so you have to sleep with your belongings out in the open if you end up in Salvia Maru (the white one). However, transportation being a ship with no escape route and the fact that Japan is in the top 10 of the safest countries in the world (rank 9, 2019 data) should put you at ease. I have not heard any stories relating to theft, but, nevertheless, do not ignore your belongings and take care of them.
At the end of the day, the newer ferry is in a better shape, has more amenities and provides a more pleasant experience, but do not be discouraged if you happen to board the older one.
Tickets Sold Out?!
On very rare occasions (days before the long weekends, national holidays and similar) the tickets might be sold out. In a way.
It is true that there is a fixed amount of seats/cabins on deck, however, even if the ship is full, people are allowed to board if they wish to do so. In that case you get a "Free Seat Ticket" (cheapest fare) which lets you board but it also means that you have no designated seat and empty space on the floor is what is left. On the bright note, together with the ticket you get a free plastic sheet (around 2x1m in size) on which you can sleep if it is Tokyo departure; Hachijojima departure should not be a problem as people do not usually sleep during the day, or do they? Whichever the case, to avoid this tricky situation you are highly advised to at least book your tickets in advance to avoid surprises during the peak season.
Safe travels!
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